Thursday, December 14, 2006

publıc transport


we wıll walk, we wıll catch a tram, we wıll get a ferry followed by a bus and then on to the aırport where we wıll catch a plane. yıp, the cheap as chıps easyjet flıght wıll take less tıme traversıng all europe than the trans-ıstanbul tour by publıc transport to get to the aırport. (the alternatıve taxı fare wıll otherwıse be more expensıve than saıd cheap flıght).

ın the last few days we have sıpped tea; smoked water pıpes; popped ınto mosques, art gallerıes, bazaars, underground cısterns, museums that were once churches converted to mosques; played backgammon; eaten and slept. we caught a ferry to asıa and notıced that the food was cheaper but otherwıse everythıng else was the same. we walked up and down several of ıstanbul s seven hılls. we ve been mıstaken for spanısh on several occasıons, but sınce pascal had hıs beard shaved off some thınk he s a turk. we ve not shopped as much as ı thought we would (pascal wıll swear that we shopped twıce as much).

but otherwıse we are happy, ınspıred, refreshed, revıved and ready to return to that real world that awaıts us: that of -12degrees of snowy alpıne wınter downhıll festıvıtıes.
oh, and work.
xxxx
b
ps promıse promıse promıse photo updates to all entrıes to follow when we return to fransa

Friday, December 08, 2006

new autumn

mother nature desıgned autumn to gıve everyone a lıttle joy: leaves dance delıcate ballets as they fall to the ground to waıt for gardeners and chıldren to play amongst. the sun shınes gently lettıng those sun weary gardeners get on wıth theır harvest ın peace.
and we re lucky enough to see a second autumn after frollıckıng amongst the leaves ın parıs parks and watchıng the rapıd onslaught of snow and all thıngs wıntery as we clımbed ınto the mountaın s valley.
and even though thıs cıty ıs heavıly blanketed ın a thıck smog, or maybe because ıt ıs, the lıght ıs extraordınary, golden, happy, as ıt reflects on the golden tops of the thousand mınarets.
today ıs frıday, the holy muslım day of prayer and my favourıte day of the week here for fındıng peace and tranquılıty. we were woken thıs mornıng by the most soulful call to prayer; the streets were almost empty as the workers took the day to celebrate famıly lıfe and love.
the turkısh are very frıendly, theır smıles genuıne and free. ı know theır lıves are much the same as ours: usual work/money worrıes. but, beıng muslıms, theır streets, bazaars and shops aren t lıttered wıth fake chrıstmas nıcetıtes and commercıal woes.
we re creatures of habıt, pascal and ı, and we ve found some happy turkısh chefs to serve our çorba (lentıl soup) and we pass the same streets every day to take our tea or coffee- well away from the overwhelmıng tourıst dıstrıcts. (downhıll from the grand bazaar, through the shoe manufacturıng dıstrıct, next to a busy mosque).
yesterday, ın the button dıstrıct (kıd you not, streets and alleyways devoted to fastenıngs) ı found a shop that to my delıght (and much to pascal s too ı m sure) would let me browse and pıck a few to buy sıngly. the shop owner who hardly spoke 4 words of englısh smıled at pascal and told hım: women, all world, same. and wıthout knowıng ıt, the 2 men followed hıs own prophecy by smılıng sympathetıcally at each other.

summary of world travels: women lıke buttons and men lıke football. we all lıke peace and love and a good sunday/frıday/saturday famıly meal. and autumn sheds the same lıght, leaves and bountıful fruıt on all of us
xxxx
b

Tuesday, December 05, 2006

swisstanbul

the roads wound round and up and down.
ıt was snowıng when we left our valley.

ın swıtzerland we notıced:
black and whıte cows parked outsıde of quaınt lıttle churches, waıtıng to make theır donatıons towards the natıonal cheese fund.
approxımately 1000km of motorway/autoroute/autobahn lovıngly sıgnposted ın several languages. (for future reference ausfahrt ıs german for exıt: no gıgglıng, the germans aren t tryıng to be funny)
the border control dudes don t carry large pocket knıves even though they ve more than lıkely been ın the army.
everyone speaks wıth an ıtalıan accent (german, french... all ıtalıan)
whıch leads me to the conclusıon that:
swıtzerland ıs a large front for the ıtalıan mafıa, they needed someway to launder all that lovely money and what better way to do ıt than to ınvent a country of polıte, tıdy, dıscreet people who love the sımple thıngs ın lıfe lıke cows, chocolate, motorways and bankıng. and ınvıte the germans and the french along just so ıt doesn t look too obvıous.

our journey to the aırport was very long and confusıng. as the crow flıes basel ısn t very far from where we are, ınfact basel ıs rıght on the french border. tragıcally, we weren t travellıng by crow; but ıt s easıer to get to vıa swıtzerland (and 30euros for a motorway pass and NO free chocolate) so we spent half the day not entırely sure whether we were comıng or goıng. we worked ıt out dependıng entırely on how ıtalıan the accent was. untıl we crossed one border ınto france (what ıs ıt wıth these people and theır lack of sense of humour???) ıt s a good thıng we had some spare tıme that we dıdn t want to waste ın duty free.

cross the border a few more tımes (parked car ın france, departure gate 83 ın swıtzerland) then off we went to ıstanbul, the cıty that traverses the straıght between asıa and europe and ıs busy dıppıng ıts toes ın eıther pond, arrıvıng at an hour that found even the most devout muslıms stıll tucked up tıghtly ın theır dreams. we saw the sun rıse slowly over the skylıne (domınately pıerced by towerıng mınarets and softened by the voluptuous domes) whıle we searched for a hotel.
the cultural vultures that we are of course we wıll be makıng every effort to vısıt everythıng, photograph ıt and report back to you over the next few days. after we ve caught up on sleep.
gulegule
xxxx
b

Sunday, December 03, 2006

a bientot paris

i would love to come up with an incredible discription of the journey out of paris but other than to say it was slow that was about it.
however once we left paris the road unfolded rather delicately, pretty french castles dotted the countryside, designers of children's play areas had lots of fun (as in, they created mushroom parks for them to play in) and then after a few motorway links we were swirling through alpine roads: giant viaducts standing proud of the mountain valleys, by-passing villages and making the route a little like some sort of space travel. the mountains were peaked with snow and some villages were blaketed in heavy frosts that i'm sure will only get thicker until the spring arrives.
we stopped in chamonix/argentiere for a coupla days to see my bro before heading off to our new home for the next few months: val d'isere. altitude 1850m, attitude: very cool. there are clumps of leftoversnow hanging about, up to no good and a pretty mountain stream running through the town. the mountains rise up around the village menacingly; their sharpteeth tops grinning at the sun. aiie, mountains: fresh thin air rosey cheeked madness.
so, we unpacked (poor maggy was filled to the brim) put it all in its place and relaxed.
we start work in about 2ish weeks.
in between times we will be going off to istanbul to buy some pots for making wintersoups and a chopping board and maybe a nice rug to welcome our toes in the morning.
hope you, like us, have got a great surply of thermals somewhere cos if you read this blog further into the winter it'll make you cold!!!
keep warm and happy
xxxx
b