Wednesday, March 15, 2006

paradise in the polynesian triangle

i'm sat now in santiago, chile, colder than i expected....
the last few months have seen us sunning ourselves and swimming on all sorts of lovely beaches.
the last part of our journey in new zealand was beautiful, i guess as expected. we spent an amazing 6 days trekking on the queen charlotte track in marlborough sounds; one of the craziest tramps i've ever experienced. the track is serviced by water taxis which offer luggage delivery services for an extra $10. but being as we were camping, and are gluttens for punishment, we carried our own gear and stayed in the DOC camp areas. along the track there were several other options for accomodation, ranging from our luxury blue tent overlooking empty, golden sanded beaches, to the squalid but historic furneaux lodge (hope they don't read this blog, they might sue me... far from squalid) with all sorts in between... places to buy cappucino, sip on cider and watch the rugby. craziness. and as you might expect the track was busy. people of all sorts of ages and abilities walking. but we still managed to find some beautiful spots all to ourselves and the weka...(cheeky indigenous, flightless birds that nick off with your stuff when you're not looking, and even have a go when you are!)
so, a quick, easy hitch through the north island stopping briefly in wellington, hamilton and auckland and then on to tahiti.
tahiti was nothing like we expected. after 3 months in aotearoa, where we were greated everywhere with smiles and friendly faces we were more than a little suprised to find all these people living in a postcard paradise looking so miserable, despite the 'tahitian' welcome of singing, dancing and flowers. we didn't do much, sat on the beach, swam, tried hard not to sweat too much.
another wee hop across the pacific to the other edge of polynesia and we landed in rapa nui: isla de pascua, easter island. and here we were again, welcomed, but with genuine smiles. everyone there referred to nueva zelanda by its maori name aotearoa. the language of rapa nui (other than spanish) is incredibly similar to te reo maori and i was surprised by how many words used in conversation i could understand. crazy. on leaving the airport we met a chap named tuti who invited us to come and stay at his house. it was, in fact, his 2 nephews aged 7 and 8 who made one of the highlights of my stay there. not long after we arrived we were invited on a fishing trip and it was while we were being burnt to a crisp on the back of a ute, bouncing along the coastal roads that we discovered that the weather was proper scorchio and so our plans of walking around the mostly deforested island where there were few sources of water were immediately cancelled. we did manage one overnight camping expedition though to the site of some fallen moai. it was one of the most beautiful evenings i've ever had: the full moon lighting the stones made the whole landscape somewhat surreal.
another quick leap back in time (travelling backwards, totally crazy) deposited us into the funk and grime of santiago.
hooked up on the net, pascal has put a few photos on for you to enjoy, and here's a collage i've made of us, a few of the moai and a beautiful sunset we enjoyed and some piccies taken along the queen charlotte track in lovely te wai pounamu: south island , new zealand.
xxxxb






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tahiti ile de paques santiago

de nouvelle zelande, nous partimes pour tahiti. deception. c est fou comme on peut sentir, des l arrivee dans un nouvel endroit, de bonnes ou de mauvaises ondes. dans ce cas-la, direct, mauvaises: quand, a la sortie de l avion, on est accueillis par des joueurs de ukulele et des vahines qui vous offrent une fleur, ca parait bien, et puis on fait la queue, et un douanier vient chercher ses amis dans la file pour les faire passer devant tout le monde; ca le fait moyen. notre premiere intention etait de dormir sur une plage (on est arrives a 20h30): deconseille par la nana de l office de tourisme, "a cause des agressions", me dit elle a mots couverts. on file donc vers le plus proche hotel, et on rencontre un francais qui vit depuis 10 ans sur l ile et d emblee me parle de la violence quotidienne, de viols, d inceste. bonjour le paradis! on change d ile le lendemain, moorea. programme accompli: sea, sex and sun. de retour sur papeete 3 jours plus tard, un local nous dit ne pas nous promener dans les rues mal eclairees; on prend le bus local pour l aeroport, et pele-mele, on voit des gamins se battre sur un parking (genre fight club), un couple se bagarrer (au passage, l homme etait a poil), et enfin, au duty free de l aeroport, la blague du jour: une femme dit a une autre:"comment c etait la journee de la femme?" (ce jour la, c etait la journee de la femme a tahiti, peut etre en france aussi, je ne sais pas); l autre dit "bof"; la premiere repond "au moins aujourd hui tu t es pas fait tabasser", et rigole.en resume, tahiti, n y allez pas! il y a plein d autres endroits sur terre aussi beaux et ou les gens sont plus sympas.

changement de decor complet sur l ile de paques: muy tranquillo!dans le temps, l ile s appelait qqch comme tea te ara, qui veut dire "centre du monde"; ils ont du faire la tronche quand les premiers europeens ont debarque; du coup, ils ont change pour "rapanui", qui veut dire grande moule ou un truc dans le genre. des braves gens, en somme.on a un peu rate les lieux touristiques de l ile, car avec le decalage horaire, on se reveillait un peu tard. et puis il fait une chaleur d enfer pdt la journee, donc marcher 6 heures pour 3 jours entre les differents sites (comme c etait prevu) n est pas vraiment une option. finalement, on s est debrouilles pour camper pres d une plate forme de moais pour la pleine lune (la photo de moi jouant aux pois (prononcez po-i-ze) a ete prise de nuit, on voit les etoiles). magique, cette nuit la!!!

depuis hier, on est a santiago, mais on va pas trainer. encore 2 nuits ici, et on file a valparaiso. retour a santiago, et on file a mendoza.au passage, comme je suis deja venu a santiago par l est il y a 2 ans, je viens de boucler mon premier tour du monde. yoohoo!




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Friday, March 03, 2006

auckland, veille du depart

et nous sommes bientot prets (dernier shopping, derniere lessive, empaquetez le tout, melangez) pour le depart vers tahiti. ile paradisiaque sans doute. non, non, je ne suis pas blase. mais on ne reste que 4 jours sur place, donc ca va etre que plage et plongee. ils annoncent un rafraichissement des temperatures labas, 29 degres au lieu des 32 habituels. heureusement, j ai toujours ma polaire avec moi. rien que de penser a l eau bleue turquoise a 25, ca fait des frissons.
je me demandais si j allais vous faire un resume rapide de nos trois mois en nouvelle zelande. c est simple: si pres du depart, j ai deja hate d y revenir. tout me plait ici, de l atmosphere si detendue qui y regne a l agitation jamais speed des villes, des paysages grandioses aux petites plages ou il n y a personne, de la montagne majestueuse a l ocean pas si fique que ca. j adore. oui, peut etre un jour j apprendrai le haka. mais je sens que la nouvelle zelande et moi seront une belle aventure, dans quelques mois ou quelques annees.
on arrivera le 14 mars a santiago chili, apres tahiti et l ile de paques. on aura surement pleins de choses a vous raconter, alors soyez prets!